Bruno and I spent a delightful morning with Bordeaux’s best Boulanger, Jan Demaitre and his wife Niki Vermassen.
After seeing a little note in Helen Wood’s blog http://notjustfortheholidays.blogspot.fr I called the listed number and was ever so surprised to find that I was talking to Jan, Bordeaux first and best organic bread baker. When ever I went into the city I’d stop by his wonderful boulangerie but I’d never met him.
We spent the morning talking about bread: flour, salt, water and a bit of Jan’s 35 year old starter, levain, sometimes called “wild yeast”. After making and kneading our own bread we left with Jans early morning bread hot from the oven and a jar of “levain” that we’re going to continue to look after and feed (it’s sort of like taking home a baby kitten). I’m already looking forward to making english crumpets with the levain as well…that sounds like a good “entente cordial”.
I’m looking forward to add their association, La Femme du Boulanger, to the propositions for my guests. Their idea of sharing a bit of their professional “savoir faire” in the intimacy of their home is exactly what I try to find for you when you visit us in France. Let me know if you would like to sign up. By the way, Jan and Niki both speak very good english.
Look up “La Femme du Boulanger Asso 1901″ on Facebook !!
After visiting with Dominique Chaigne to talk about her excellent website http://www.coeurdecampagne.fr (in french) where she helps promote our region of Entre Deux Mers she suggested joining one of the visits she had put together for a group of local french visitors. Between two March showers I joined a friendly and well informed guide, Marie Catherine, to rediscover the banks of the Dordogne river, 10 minutes only from home. A place I know well in the summer as I organise boat trips and walks for my guests there…but rarely walk its banks this time of year. It was interesting to hear someone else talk about places where I usually do the talking…I knew about the Roman roadway that went through Entre Deux Mers but I learned that it’s noted on an ancient Roman road map dating from 300AD called the “Map of Peutinger”, now in the Austrian National Archives that you can see only a bit of in my photo…. but I found the whole long role on Youtube !
Every saturday morning his truck rolls into the driveway at our farm at Pey Froment, and all the hamlet’s neighbors come to buy their weekend supply of veggies (from Patrick’s home garden or from other nearby growers), home made bread and jams, organic sausages and other local goodies. While we have to take the car to the other daily outdoor markets this one comes to us. We can’t wait for spring’s warmer weather as our neighbors, Fred and Dalila, are going to open up an outdoor café on saturday mornings. Breakfast and coffee with the neighbors and our B&B guests while we wait for Patrick to arrive …what a nice way to start the saturday morning grocery shopping.
Happy New Year to each of you ! Merci to all of you who have followed the activities here at La Forge this past year. I haven’t been very good at keeping you up on what’s been going on…maybe it’s just that we’re too busy with our everyday lives to sit down and record all of those special moments that we’d love to share with you.
For all of those who have been here once or twice of many time we’d love to see you again this year…and for all of those who have only had a taste of What’s Cooking in France please come for a visit and experience it for yourselves !
Still today, even more than a Christmas tree, many French families set up a crèche. More or less elaborate, most often with small ceramic “santons” depicting the usual Mary, Joseph and baby jesus…who is always hidden away and taken out to the delight of the little children on christmas eve. The best part of the traditional “crèche provencale” is that it includes not only shepherds guarding their flocks but all the different tradesmen and characters from life the villages of Provence in the early 1800 when the first “santons” where made in Marseille.
Every year now I take out my collection of antique religious books and use them as the decor to suggest the landscape and grotto for my crèche that grows with added “santons” each year. Over the years our grandchildren gave us a santons representing two grandparents sitting on a little bench and a blacksmith at his forge and a friend gave us a wonderful “paysan” and his wife pulling guiding their horse and a cart of hay….
There are of course the three wise men and their camel that arrive on the 6th of January when everyone share the “galette des rois”: depending on what area you live in, it is either a sugar sprinkeled brioche or an “pate feuilleté” filled with almond paste and pastry cream…and always a small favor hidden inside that proclames the finder ROI or REINE for the day…and that goes on all throughout the month of January.
With eight different varietys of cherry trees we have cherrys for almost two months…but hurry over before the birds beat you to them ! We try to pick a basket every morning for your breakfast.
and there is fresh salad and herbs in Bruno’s garden at the Mill.
It might seem strange to see me writing about a French hamburger, but to understand why, you’ll just have to come to Bordeaux to taste one of the specialties at VACHER BURGER (vacher translates as a “cow heard”). When Eloise and I went recently, I had the Marcel (locally raised beef, homemade bar-b-q sauce, cheddar cheese, bacon, lettuce, onion and pickles) with real “french” fries, homemade mayonnaise and catsup). Eloïse tried the Léon (the same tasty beef — but she ordered hers rare — with a homemade bacon sauce, onion, raw milk cheese and arugula). Both burgers are served on the perfect bun made by the bakery just around the corner.
VACHER BURGER opened two months ago in two Bordeaux locations: 38 cours Portal (near the antique district, near several of my favorite shops — Totems et Tabous and Vert-Tige — and across the street from one of the city’s chic new pastry shops, Antoine) and 15 rue Pilliers de Tutelle in the center of town. VACHER BURGER’s owner and creator is an enthusiastic graphic artist and architect who’s been wanting to open a real “hamburger joint” like this for a long time.
Both Eloïse and I were delighted with the taste of the beef and the bun and with the quality of the homemade sauces — and the atmosphere. We can’t wait to introduce these “real burgers” to our French friends, many of whom only know hamburgers put together under the golden arch. French or American, it’s the taste that counts!
When you come to Bordeaux you’ll have all the good wine and cheese you want — but I’ll also send you to discover the Bordeaux “hamburger joint”.